Author: admin

Ammon:

We got up, and started driving to Brewerville because it was a 2 hour drive. Only felt like 30 minutes to me tho. Also, on the way there, dad apparently saw a 6 PERSON MOTO CYCLE (which was 3 adults and 2 kids). We got there and there was a big surprise, and amidst all of the chaos, mom pulled me into a gift thing and I had to take a bite out of something, I don’t even know what it was, but it tasted not too great. Then we had a 5 minute walk to their place, and it was HOT in there. So I went outside to cool off. I had a notebook to fan myself with, then a group of kids came up to me, and one of them had a pencil. So we sat down and I started drawing. Then it was over, and everyone was HOT and radiating their heat to me, so I was BURNING and had to wait 15 minutes while being roasted alive. Turned into a rotisserie chicken-human. Then we left and I got good airflow sticking my head out of the car window.

Then we got to the market, and had to shut off the car a couple times because of how backed up it was.

Then we got back to the Stop And Shop and I got M&M’s, and some Wild Berry Skittles. Then got a wrap and some chocko muffins. Half a dozen. Then got home and had a good shower. Then got in the pool, and got bored really fast, cuz there was no kids in the pool.

Pictures from Sept 27, Saturday

LaReita:

Last year when the Liberian refugee camp in Buduburam, Ghana was bulldozed, one family who had been through the FMF programs, decided it was time to go back to their motherland. Mary & Arthur Gborlie (also members of the church) began doing literacy classes in their hometown of Brewerville.

Over the past few months, the numbers of literacy students in Brewerville has swelled to 80 women and 10 men. The biggest draw is that after literacy comes vocational training. A woman pastor of a local church, made with bamboo walls and scavenged tin roof, gladly offered her location so the people in her village/town could lift themselves with literacy and vocational training.

We were greeted in the traditional Liberian style which is a bit overwhelming! Singing, dancing, surrounded by the mob of happy people. We were offered the traditional gift of white kola nuts wrapped in a banana leaf. Ammon said while we were being joyfully escorted to the bamboo church, “I’m looking forward to going home where I’m not videoed all the time, and I can be anonymous.” Yes, my son, so is your dad, and me.

As we entered the bamboo, tin roof hut church, the humidity-heat was stifling. Fortunately, Liberians are much more efficient with time than Ghanaians. There was a printed program outline, and they were brief with their comments. Dave later said he was preparing for the long-haul, but was pleasantly surprised with how quickly it went. Which was good because you could see how he was almost melting away with sweat!

Going into these situations it is important to maintain expectations. I clearly stated that I am not their Savior, Dave is not their Savior, only Jesus is their Savior. I made comments about the importance of literacy and business training before the vocational training. I introduced Dave as a successful businessman. Dave made some good comments also about the importance of continued learning. I followed-up with a statement that the glory of God is intelligence. As we are God’s children, we are also capable of increasing our knowledge, and he wants to grow our gifts (our minds) he has given us.

We presented the books to the literacy teacher (they didn’t have any books). The vocational teachers they have found were presented to everyone, and the Reverend mother stated that vocational training will start November 1^s to which everyone erupted with cheers. Oh boy. She took us outside to show us the land that she will gift to FMF to build a literacy and vocational center. I smiled and nodded. Managing expectations and negotiations is an art form.

More group photos, and Ammon was going into teenager mode because it was a clear day, no wind and the heat was oppressive.

We began our drive back and when we reached the marketplace we were at a standstill for 1.5 hours. To Liberia’s credit, they are preparing to expand the roads in this northern area, which could be seen with the rubble of buildings once at the side of the road. After we passed through the crowded marketplace, we approached huge, new road equipment, and a sign that said road improvements will take 2 years. I asked our driver, “is that 2 years in USA time? Or Africa 2 years?” He smiled and said probably about 6 years because they can only do the pavement work during the dry season (Nov-March).

We stopped again at the Stop & Shop store next to our apartment and ordered $100 worth of used picture and young adult chapter books from Dave, the bookseller. We are going to another location on Monday morning. He was over-joyed!

That reminds me, a couple of days ago we went to “Orca” (their WalMart) to get plastic bins to hold the books we presented today. When we walked in the air conditioned building, and saw organized products on shelves, Ammon was thrilled! He started wandering through the aisles, followed by a store worker. This was a good teaching moment of how our bodies/minds are regulated (feel better) when we see what we consider is ‘normal’.

Ammon & I did go to the pool at the apartment. There were kids who came over to say hi to Ammon, but he barely acknowledged them. Probably because he is ready to be anonymous and not be a curiosity!

We watched Karate Kid III and went to bed. It was an emotionally exhausting day.

Ammon:

When we were driving, we saw a 4 people on a moto cycle! We drove by the Firestone Rubber Tree Farm. It was a 1.5 hour drive there. Then we got to the new FMF rental house. We had a quick tour, and I saw a gigantic generator. Then we gifted them 3 wata bottles and a filter pump. Then I let the adults talk while I played after dads phone. Then we left and I saw a 5 PERSON MOTO CYCLE (which was 4 people and a baby) then we stopped at the market to get more bottled water, and I convinced mom to give me 55 cents to buy something with. I bought a meat pie, and some bananas. Then we got back to our hotel/apartment.

Pictures from 26th, Friday

LaReita:

We drove to FMF’s rental house in the middle of the county, situated closer to farm land. The plan is to create a local farming business to fund in-country FMF operations. We have 3 workers who graduated a couple months ago from agricultural training in Uganda. The 5 month program, Genesis Agroecology Leadership Training, is also how to operate and create sustainable farming methods (not the slash and burn methods). We spent the day with our workers creating the vision and started the business outline. Also negotiations for their monthly salaries.

The drive there and back was on 90% smooth, paved and wide roads! Liberia really is working on rebuilding their infrastructure. 

Ammon:

We went to the National Museum of Liberia. Then took a short drive to Providence Island and saw The Tree Of Peace which was made of AK’s, M4’s, RPG’s, and other firearms. Even the roped off barrier was made of RPGs. Then saw a really old well (still working), then drove to DUCOR HOTEL. It was the first luxury hotel in Africa. And right next to it was a statue of their first president. And then we went to a grocery store called Stop And Shop, and dad got MTN dew and I got “sugar” cereal. Then we took a sorta long drive to Tropicana Beach. I got buried in sand 2 times, and the waves were “too big” for me to play in.

pictures from 25th Thursday

LaReita:

Brief Liberia history: Liberia was founded July 26, 1847 (note the date-close to Pioneer Day) by freed American slaves sent by the “American Colonization Society”. Among others, Lincoln was a supporter of the ACS. The freed slaves became the ruling class – the “masters” – over the 16 local tribes. There was at least one Liberian president that tried to get the “Americos” to integrate and allow the locals representation, but he was ousted. After 142 years of tensions, civil war erupted where 250,000+ Liberians died between 1989-2003. Although today they don’t call it a war – it was a ‘civil conflict’.

We hired Chris Sullivan’s (a FMF friend) former Liberian mission companion (Toye) to be our tour guide for the day, and Toye’s taxi friend. The National Museum of Liberia has different sections, including their equivalent of Philadelphia’s Independence Hall that holds official government functions. We even got to stand at the presidential podium when he delivers speeches. Saw the 3 main presidential limosuines (well, one was an armored Land Rover for war lord Charles Taylor, complete with his ‘throne’ back seat.) Went through the museum created by the first president post-war, who also was the first woman president. Not quite up to USA and European standards, but they are doing the best with what they got, and trying bring the people together to heal.

Visited Providence Island, where the ACS settlers first arrived. It is also in stages of being renovated. While walking down the cement ramps to the island, you can still see bullet holes. Their nation is still healing.

Drove to the highest point in the capital city (Monrovia) where the first 5 star hotel in Africa was built by Pan-Am in 1960, and run by IHG – Ducor Hotel, or Ducor Palace. In 1987 when tensions were rising, IHG pulled out. By 1989, the war lord set up operations there (good location overlooking city). As the war calmed displaced residents and refugees squatted there. After the war ended, they were kicked out, but the hotel was stripped of everything. It is just bare concrete now.

Also at this highest point is a monument to “the REAL FIRST African-American president, JJ Roberts,” as our tour guide proudly stated. (Roberts International Airport is Liberia’s main airport.)

We went to an American-style beach property. Had good food. Relaxed listening to the waves. Though the waves are very turbulent and it is not safe. Ammon was belligerent and still went into the water. The manager asked him to get out.

Went to a nearby grocery store “Stop & Shop” – also run by some more Syrian friends to get some basics for our kitchen, and toilet paper! In front of the store was the ONLY used bookseller within a 25-minute drive. Dave introduced himself to Dave, the bookseller. I told Dave, the bookseller, what we do and said I’ll buy $100 worth of books from you for us to take on Saturday to one of our literacy centers. He was thrilled! And I was thrilled we have a source on the ground where we can stimulate the local economy instead of storing books in the USA and trying to get them over there.

Liberia follows so much in the American ways, and they love their American roots. Yet, it feels like Liberia is the unspoken step-child of the USA. To quote a Disney film, “We don’t talk about Bruno.” or “We don’t talk about Liberia.”

Ammon:

First of all, I woke up to no AC because we had run out of electricity, and had no breakfast, so we decided to go to the airport 4-3 hours early. Finally the stand opened and we could go to the lounge. Had some nice food, and learned how engines and transmissions work from a video because I was curious. I also learned how jet engines work! Then we boarded and we had a 2 hour flight so I decided to read my book for an hour, then play on dads phone for an hour. Then we landed (the airport was an old military base) and had a 1 hour drive to our apartment. Then tried to watch Karate Kid II but the internet was slow.

Pictures from Wed 24th

LaReita:

I woke up to the sound of massive rain fall on the aluminum roof, and the A/C no longer running. During heavy rain storms, Ghana Electric Company shuts off the power grid (because it was built in 1960’s and there have been limited upgrades.) To clarify Ammon’s statement, Ghana Electric Company turned off the supply for everyone.

We had planned to leave for the airport at 11am. However, since there was no electricity, we might as well go early to the airport where there is uninterrupted electricity, and sit in a lounge. Good thing we left at 9am, because it took nearly 2 hours to get to the airport due to flooding on the main road. Once at the airport, we were so early, we had to wait 1.5 hours until the departures counter opened to check-in our bags.

Finally, we got through the passport and security processes, and on to the lounge to eat a good breakfast of Ghanaian style food. Our 2 hour flight was half-full going to Monrovia, Liberia. Interesting side note: the roads from Ghana, through Ivory Coast, and to Liberia are mostly unpaved, and no bridges to make a bee-line from capitol to capitol. This distance is either

a) a 2 hour plane ride –or– b) TWO full 24-hour days in a bus.

We got our bags, and as we began to exit, we had to go through ANOTHER security scan. This was a first for me. We’ve already been through Ghana airport security (2x) on our departure, but Liberia was doing security again as we exited the airport. Interesting.

Our agricultural trainer met us with his taxi driver. Another guy met us to receive a missionary back-pack full of American comfort items for an American missionary serving in Liberia. I was a little annoyed in taking the items, but we had the space so I relented. My personal feelings is that a missionary grows as they make sacrifices by leaving the comforts of home. Additionally, mothers need to let go so their missionary can grow.

Roberts International Airport (ROB) is in the middle of the country (not in a city), so it took about 1.5 hours drive to get to our apartment rental I found on VRBO. We arrived and there was no toilet paper and only 1 bath towel. I knew something like this would happen at one point, so that’s why I always travel with TP and a hiking quick-dry towel whenever I come to Africa!

Other than that, the apartment rental is quite nice (A/C and running water!), operated by a Syrian family, who have been in Liberia since 2015.

Ammon:

We started driving to Buduburam, and stayed at a chuch for a little bit, and I made a little chair fort bed thing, which was nice and comfy. Then we had to go to a FMF place which was just down the road. Came back and read my book and played on dads phone.

Pictures from Tuesday 23rd

LaReita:

Dave and I trained our Buduburam managers and volunteer on the new FMFed.org administration site to track and provide metrics. The literacy students at our nearby location really wanted us to come visit. Dave stayed at the church with one of our managers, while Ammon and I went to visit our Literacy and Vocational Center (in a rented, unfinished house.) I brought a few more books to add to the library shelves, and read out loud “The Little Red Hen.” We visited the baking class, and sewing class to hear them speak their thanks and concerns. Back at the church I heard out 2 more people who needed someone to hear them. Our literacy volunteer then arrived and I learned more about her story escaping out of modern-day slavery from Saudi Arabia. It is astounding this is still happening in the world.

Dave was on call all day to fix and do tweaks to the website as we beta-tested it with everyone who was accessing it with different permissions.

At 5:30 pm I could see it was starting to get dark, and we needed to get heading back to Becky’s house (1+ hour away). The sun near the equator sets really fast. Generally it’s a good idea for obroni (white person) to be in their safe house by dark. Ghana is generally safe, but there are nefarious people wherever you go. I tried calling an Uber, but due to massive construction on the main road, no driver was ‘picking’ my ride.

We asked our assistant manager, Anthony, to walk with us to the taxi station because by now it was completely dark. To get a sense of what the taxi station looked like, imagine NYC Time Square, but in dirt and no lanes, and the mass of humanity pushing against each other with all their shapes and sizes of vehicles.

We stood in this chaos for about 15 minutes trying to hail a taxi. A young Ghanaian watched our plight and got a taxi to stop for us. I gave him a 20ghc finder’s fee (about $2). I encouraged the driver to drive us to the house which an hour away, by tripling the normal fare. Drivers loathe this particular road’s construction condition (if you saw, you’d understand). It would be an hour away from his usual routes, and another hour back. I gave him 300ghc ($23) to take us.

We finally got back to the house at 7:45pm. Having had only trail mix all day and limited water, we were so hungry. Before we had left in the morning, I had asked Donne (the house caretaker) to make us ‘Red-Red’ for dinner tonight (black-eyes peas/beans in red palm oil with fried plantain). We were so hungry, and it tasted so good!

Oh, and the water pipes to the house were busted again. So, no water tonight. I did take a bucket-bath before bed because I sleep so much better after the days dust, grime and sweat is off my body.

Before going to bed I ensured we had enough electricity on the meter to get us through the night with A/C. All of us collapsed into bed and were out like a Ghana light before 9:30pm.

Ammon:

Had some people come to the house and played and gave them a Lego set (if ur wondering it was a small 3-in-1 truck/plane/boat) and we bought pizza, of which they had never had before. So that was kinda cool.

Pictures from Monday

LaReita:

Dave utilized the strong Starlink satellite internet to get more work done. In the morning I did a Zoom training call for our FRC managers in other countries. It was some basics of understanding trauma responses. Even though this is in our common vernacular today, for Africans they have never heard of the “Fight, Flight, Freeze” response and other basic psychology stuff. My presentation’s title: “Why do I do that? Understanding the mind-body connection.”

It was Ghana’s National Founder’s Day (the first Ghana president), so no school. I invited Faustina’s family to come to the house to talk, play and eat pizza. Ammon got 2 small Lego sets in Dubai to give to some kids. This was the perfect opportunity to give and build it with their family. We had also got some of those fun hand helicopters at the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum and we gave them a few.

They also had never had pizza before, so we ordered pizza that is the closest to American sytle. Close, but not quite. It was actually more Ghana-style because the restaurant sprinkled on a lot of red pepper!

After a couple of hours of visiting they went home. We packed up and got an Uber to the Kumasi airport to return to Accra. Getting an Uber in Ghana is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you’re gonna get. A newer car leased directly from Uber, or a converted taxi that bottoms out frequently when carrying 2 big Americans over the speed bumps.

Ammon:

I was given ANOTHER jacket/smock (that’s 4) then took a ride to chuch, and tbh (To Be Honest) I don’t remember a thing. (Writing this 4 days later.) Then drove to the FRC and basically met some fellow kids and we did the swing. After that got some food, met a dog, got my photo taken, and I think that was all.

Pictures from Sunday

LaReita:

Hilton, one of our managers in Tamale (northern Ghana), stayed overnight in a spare bedroom. In the morning he presented to Ammon another traditional smock. Ammon wore the other smock a lot last year in the winter. It is completely hand-woven and hand-stitched. I marvel at how much time it would have taken to create this piece of clothing. Although we gratefully accepted Hilton’s heart-felt gift, I am more concerned about him (a starving college student), sacrificing so much to buy this instead of buying food for himself to eat!

We took Hilton with us to church (he’s not a member). He is used to Pentecostal churches. So I briefed him before we went into the covered patio for this branch of the Church of Jesus Christ. Although our church meetings are more demure in their preaching style, the S I N G I N G remains the same! Oh the stirrings of the heart as you hear these African saints sing out loud! I think the 40 in attendance were louder than our ward of 200 in Spanish Fork. Seriously, this one of my favorite parts of attending church in Africa.

During the Sunday School discussion, me, Dave and Becky smiled at each other knowingly. How these new saints interpreted and discussed the lesson was not how it would have been in Utah. Honestly, it is refreshing to see the different stages of faith and spiritual development without the long-term historical entanglements.

The missionaries made a bee-line for Hilton after church and got his contact info. We then sent him to the VIP bus station to go back to Tamale. We went back to Becky’s house for a couple of hours to chat, then we drove to the Family Restoration Center (FRC) about 40 minutes away. The FRC is an after-care facility for women rescued from trafficking (mostly from the middle east). The women stay here for 3 years doing literacy, vocational trainings and LifeStory Leadership training (mind-set mastery). By the time they graduate they are prepared for success and won’t fall into the trafficking trap (modern-day slavery.) It was great seeing and hugging some of the former students/clients who are now the mentors/teachers to the newer girls who have returned from their slavery situations.

The property was open to the community to come inside and also experience the party. There were soooo many people!

This was the 3^rd graduating class, and it was the biggest graduation party with one Ghana tradition I had not seen before. Throwing money at the graduates (similar to what is done for a bride).

Traditions I have experienced:
– LOUD music pounds through my body (I had ear plugs thankfully)
– Honorary introductions

– Sitting with tribal chiefs

I invited Faustina Tanoe’s family to join us. I’ve been in contact with her family since my first trip in 2016. Sylvester, Gilbert (nephew), Monika (niece), [Anita, living now with her auntie], LaReita, & Tiki. (Yes, LaReita is my name-sake.) After 30 minutes of sitting next to the 8 foot speakers at level 1000, I decided to leave the honorary tent/table. Ammon had already left to wander with Merriam (Becky’s daughter). I motioned to Sylvester and his siblings for us to go to the big tree swing. We had fun reliving what we did last year. Some of these kids rarely have the chance to swing. It was fulfilling to see the children squeal with delight.

Becky needed to stay longer for the event, but we were free to leave since we made our appearance.

We started the journey back which took over an hour because of traffic. A packed two lane roadway with 6pm end-of-church and end-of-funeral traffic.

Ammon:

We went to the airport and got to the small airport lounge. I found out that airport lounges sometimes have showers! (Didn’t use it.) Then got on our prop plane flight. Then we landed, and took a taxi to Becky’s house. Met the one-week old puppies (German Shepherds). Dad did work, and mom met people, so just screen day for me. 🙂

Pictures from Saturday

LaReita:

Yes, it was a screen afternoon for Ammon. I take consolation that it was Saturday, and at home Ammon would be playing on the computer anyway.

Getting to Kumasi from Accra options:

Option 1 (most economical): The VIP bus = 5 hours on crowded roads.Five hours does not include getting to the station and sitting/waiting on the hot bus. Once on the road, you get the adrenaline bonus experiencing the bus driver driving at kamikaze, break-neck speeds on partially unpaved or pot-holed roads. Then once you reach the station, getting to your final destination.

Option 2 (fastest method): Passion Airways (propeller-jet plane) = 30-40 minutes domestic flight. We can use our Priority Pass benefit to sit in an air conditioned lounge with a buffet, drinks, and strong wifi.

We chose Option 2. The fastest, but also more expensive. The flights to Kumasi used to be $120 round-trip. Pretty Then in January, a Chinese company bought the airline. It now is $250 round-trip. Sigh. The flights were still full (mostly Ghanaians), so apparently people are able and willing to pay. What was most frustrating to me is I tried to buy the tickets a month ago at cheaper prices, but since I was on an African website, using my USA Visa card, it kept being rejected as fraud. Ugh. So I relented and bought the tickets at their window when we landed in Ghana a few days ago. I probably could have called Visa to let the purchase go through, but…. I didn’t. Can’t win them all I suppose. We supported the Chinese businessmen and the locals they employ.

At Becky’s house I trained three of our managers on the new website Dave built for us to manage people, hours, courses, classes and attendance – FMFed.org. Also training them on the regular website for blogging and requisition forms. I’m learning how to delegate better and give others technology skills that will make them more employable. After-all, mentoring is in our name.

I wanted to train them all at the same time to be efficient with my time. However, they all arrived according to African Standard Time. My planned 2 hour training became 6 hours. Akwaaba (ah-kwa-bah) Ghana (translation: “Welcome to Ghana.”)

Dave happily connected to Becky’s Starlink and made some good progress on his real work project (Medicare data code-sets).

Ammon:

at 10AM we went to the beach and me and Donne caught 3 crabs and a snake fish. Near the end of our beach time the waves near the shore was MASSIVE, and I had a lot of fun. Got to ride a horse too. The horse was sorta a slow horse and I did try to get it up to a trot. The tack (saddle, bridle) was makeshift and the stirrups were rope with a thin piece of metal at the bottom. Did get roasted because we didn’t reapply sunscreen. Had a nice screen time playing a Minecraft clone.

Pictures & Videos from Sept 19

LaReita:

It’s been 2 weeks since we have been able to talk to Sam because of the 8 hour time difference while we were in Kenya. Now that we are only 5 hours ahead, we were able to work it out that he called today 4am his time, 9am our time. He says AIT (Adavanced Individual Training) is easier than Basic Training. The hardest part is staying on track with nutrition. He does have a buddy who was in Fat Camp with him, and Basic Training, so they are keeping each other accountable. We got the details for his graduation day and family day, so we’ll be doing another trip in November (just 5 days max though!)

After our phone call, we packed a small backpack of snacks, towels, and took a taxi to a private beach. I hobbled down the boardwalk and towards bamboo bench in the sand. Propped up my foot, and watched Ammon, Dave, and Donne play in the water. Before Dave and Donne joined Ammon, I could see Ammon go further and further out and I was just seeing his head above the waves. He knows how to swim, but the undertow that can happen he doesn’t know about. A local lady in a swimsuit started heading out to Ammon, and Dave also started moving towards him to bring him back to safer depths. They played in the water for about 2 hours. I enjoyed my fresh coconut water and tried to be in the present moment and not on the phone answering messages. (Though I did have to call and talk with our Treasurer about a bank issue.) I alternated my foot being in the sand, and being propped. By the time we left, I could actually put some pressure on it. Hooray! (I’m taking the tincture every 2 hours.)

The best part of the beach experience was when a Ghanaian young man led a horse up to us and asked if anyone wanted to ride. This was a great teaching moment for Ammon. He rode a horse in Dubai. After the the Mara Game Drive he said, “I wish I had a portable horse that I could ride wherever I go.”

Well. Here in Ghana, a horse was delivered to him. On the beach! He spoke what he wanted. The power of intention. LifeStory.

I enjoyed seeing the makeshift saddle, bridle and stirrups – everything Ghana-style. Just make-do with what you have. The young man was impressed that Ammon knew how to ride. Though once again, Ammon got a tourist horse and it wouldn’t respond to his commands to trot!

As we were driving back from the beach another teaching moment about how to speak in the present-tense to create what you want to happen. “The water is flowing freely through the pipes at Becky’s house where we are currently staying.” A few hours later, water was flowing! (After much work by Donne to track down who/how to get it connect to the house.)

Dave and I spent the rest of the day back at the house doing finances, and Ammon happily alternated using dad’s phone and laptop.